Deelish dinner and hilltop retreat

I went for dinner last night with Charlene, a fascinating women who has lived, worked and traveled all over the world, I really enjoy her company, more about her later in this post. The meal was sooo good. The restaurant called Tiestos, is owned by the charming chef Juan Carlos Solano, tall, dark, handsome, so personable and attentive. He continually visited the tables to chat and ensure everyone was happy . The open kitchen allows him to see diners enjoying his food, and he is in full view of diners wanting to watch him, he is lovely to look at. We ordered ' lomo fino a la crema y tomate' medium rare, which are medalians of beef, the crema a delicious reduction with cream added, the meat was first rate, tender flavorful and perfectly cooked. We were first served a basket of bread accompanied with 7 little bowls of an assortment of salsas, eggplant, mango, hot pepper, garlic and parsley, others I do not know what was in them but they were good. The main course was served with four side dishes all yummy too. The deserts we ordered were art on a plate, I ate mine slowly savoring every bite. Along with the meal we had a bottle of red wine and ended with a liquor. Total cost of this feast for two, $33.90. I will be going back, next time I will try for a picture of chef Juan Carlos Solano.

Charlene, who gave me the OK to show her name and picture here, now lives in Ecuador and owns a chicken and trout farm. She has a manager who does most of the work while she oversees. Her home is a 100 year old colonial style u shaped around an outside terraza. The house is now in the midst of being renovated. She has lived in Hawaii, India, Japan, China, Taiwan, Australia and is originally from Oregon. She came to South America a year ago with the intent of travelling through out all the countries starting in Columbia. She got to Ecuador loved it so much never went any further and decided to stay and live here. Her son, his wife and child have also moved here. She has stories to tell.

I have booked a single cabin here, http://www.izhcayluma.com/en/frameset.html, for four days starting next Tuesday. I decided I need a holiday from my holiday and this seemed the perfect place. Massage, facial, Reiki, hiking the hills, a day of horse riding. Cost per night is $24..

I am enjoying this respite from my real life in Canada, a real life I love, and feel so blessed to be able to do this every once in while, explore different countries and cultures, but my roots are deep in Canada I won't be moving here or anywhere I else I travel to. I do like Ecuador and the people I have met here and I am thinking I might return next year for another visit.

Cloud Forests and deserts

I am still wondering the streets of Cuenca though I did take a day trip yesterday to the the cloud forest in Giron to see the 60 meter Chorro de Giron waterfall in a beautiful area lined with mosses and bromeliads. I love cloud forests and could have stayed there all day wondering the trails. Later on the same day we went to a desert, near Santa Isabel. The hot desert, beautiful in a very different way, was a little harder to trek up through the rocky hills. There was a lovely green oasis in one area along the river that flows through. It is the rainy season now, the hills were patched with green. The guide told me a hydro electric plant is planned for the area, a dam will be built so much of the area we hiked in will be under water.

I went with a group accompanied by an English speaking guide, Peter. We were 4 people, a couple from Colorado maybe in their 50's and a lady about that age too from Los Angeles. We were an odd group the couple really did not want to hike so stayed in the van, they complained about the cloud forest being too wet and cold and then complained the desert was too hot and barren. I am not sure why they would go on what is advertised as a hiking day at these different sub climates when they do not enjoy hiking and were not even much interested in the scenery along the way. Very odd. The lady from Los Angeles, Janice, walked a little, tired easily and seemed to be much more involved with the music on her ipod then the places we were in. She too spent most of the time in the van with her music. Peter, the guide, was terrific, I enjoyed his company and the obvious love he has for his country as he talked to me about what we were seeing and the history of the areas. The hikes were intended to be an hour and a half in each of the areas however the man from Colorado made such a fuss about having to wait the guide and I agreed to cut each hike to 45 minutes.

Between the 2 areas we stopped for lunch in a small town, the food was fresh and very good. Janice and I chatted throughout lunch but the couple read their books and pretty much ignored us and each other. Janice is returning home to Los Angeles today maybe she did not want to tire herself prior to a long flight. Maybe the Colorado couple were squabbling and just wanted to pout. I am guessing at this, not sure what the story really is and it could very well be that they thought of me as odd. I have met so many interesting people on my travels, though none quite like these three.

As we drove from Giron to Santa Isabel we went through various small towns in each I noticed a number of large beautiful houses in the midst of construction among the mostly humble homes of the towns people. I asked the guide if these belonged the mayor and other important persons. He told me that many of the men will go to the states or more often now to Europe to work and send money home. The men leave wives and family behind in Ecuador who will have the houses built with the money sent, sometimes over the course of 20 years. Once completed the men will come home to live in splendor in their native towns. I seen many completed houses that seemed to be sitting deserted the guide said they cannot be lived in until the man comes home and a house ceremony is held. Problem is after so many years the men are likely to have another family where ever it is they are working and the wives too have another man and family. Eventually the men will usually return to Ecuador to claim their houses and show their good fortune. Peter did not know what happens to the 'other' families in either case or what happens if the man never returned.

I visited the Panama hat museum here in Cuenca which was a little cheesey and mostly set up to sell hats. I have tried on a number of occasions to visit the Modern Art Museum however I never seem to get there when it is open. There are hours posted but they do not seem to be held to. I will keep trying as I have read they have very good exhibits.

I walked to the area where metal workers live to see the 'God of fire' statue and exhibition of metal works. The workers call their trade ' art of fire' I love that. Unfortunately that too was closed so I did not get to see it.

Cuenca has a profusion of pirated movie shops, in the malls and on just about every street. Movies cost $1.50 each, the better shops will preview the movie for you before you buy. I have bought a few and they are pretty good quality.

Along the avenue that runs beside the river cows graze the banks keeping them nicely landscaped. I never see their droppings, I am pretty sure someone walks through and cleans them up regularily just as the streets are continuously swept clean. I found a new place for almuerso, packed with office workers from the area, I had a 3 course very tasty meal for $2.00.

Puzzled: The bakery where I buy bread, it is well patronized by the people in the neighborhood where I live, the shop is always busy, yet they never have change for a 50 cent piece. The small loaf of bread I buy costs 30 cents.

My days here are pretty full between wondering and meeting new friends for lunch or dinner and with Susana my landlady for our language lessons. I went with Susana to the large grocery store the other day, she needed a couple things, we went to the line for people with less then 10 items. The line was long, one lady ahead of us had at least 15 items, Susana did not like this and started to yell at the lady to get out of this line she did not belong there. The store manager came to see what the fuss was about, after assessing things he took the ladies elbow and escorted her to another line. This made Susana very happy, I am not learning much Spanish from her but she sure makes me laugh. There is a little guy who lives in the building where I stay, he is nine years old and he wants to go to United States when he grows up, get lots of money and buy a helicopter, cute kid.

Next week I am off the Vilcabomba for a few days, said to be the valley of longevity, I am looking forward to going there.

Carnival, guitars and gigolos

Carnival is in full swing here in Ecuador everyone seems to be having a good time, parties go on all night with loud music and fire works and lots of water bombs and soap foam being a part of the festivities. I have heard different stories about the origins of Carnival the common factor being it is celebrated in the last few days before lent starts, strengthening the body with lots of food and drink before lent fasting begins and it is about honoring the god of planting and harvesting. Seems it originally was a pagan celebration but with the introduction of Christianity it has taken on a religious sense.

Yesterday I went to Quingeo a small town of indigenous people about an hours drive from Cuenca to witness 'El Taita Carnival'. On the way we stopped in a tiny village famous for being the home of several very good guitar makers. At one shop the owner was at work doing intricate inlay on a guitar face. The guitars are made out of different types of wood but the facade on the front is made from pine. He showed how he takes thin strips of wood dyed in different colors then glues them together to make one strand of many colors which he cuts into tiny pieces for the inlay work. The guitars were beautiful I would love to be able to take one home for each Nollie and Patrick, both guitar lovers.

Visiting Quingeo was so much fun. The people mix pagan beliefs with their Catholic faith, praying and giving tribute to both. El Taita is a mystical character through which the people seek to contact the god of good crops and harvest. They give tribute with a parade, carnival songs, water, cans of soap foam and small boxes of corn starch that gets dumped and sprayed on everyone. I got drenched and coated in foam and corn starch. Capulie's queen, who I think is another mystical character, is also chosen from among a group of lovely ladies. The cans of foam and squirt bottles for water were sold at dozens of stands. Armed with cans of foam and a water squirter I joined in the fun. Two little guys made me their target and we had a good time chasing each other or hiding trying for surprise attacks. It is their town they knew exactly where to hid and they would disappear and then suddenly come up behind me and douse me with water or foam. I got them pretty good a few times but they got the better. I went through the cans of foam pretty fast, a lot of it missing the mark. So much fun I felt like a kid again. I did not get many pictures, I kept my camera safely out of harms way, soap and water being bad for cameras. We ate the best spit roasted pork I have ever had, a huge serving along with tiny potatoes, corn and a salad was $3.00. Delicious.

The whole day was such fun and the food so good I think I may have to come back to Ecuador some day during Carnival and visit Quingeo again.

I have mentioned Senor Louis in a previous post, he owns the tienda across from the apartment building where I stay. I have not mentioned Hugo the building superintendent nor the Ital Deli's, next door to the building, guard, Juan. Really nice guys who I try to have short conversations with every day in order to practice Spanish. Juan a little flirty, Latino, but friendly. Hugo never fails to tell me if I have any problems to let him know and he will fix whatever is broken. Senor Louis is about 70, I would guess Hugo and Juan to be around 30. Today being a holiday the 3 of them are out front of the tienda drinking beer, drunk. I did not realize they were drunk until I went into the shop for a few things or I would not have gone in. Yikes I am now pretty sure they think I am a rich old gringa looking for a mate or a boy toy and they see an opportunity for some extra bucks. It never occured to me that maybe they think I am chatting them up because I talk to them every day. Senior Louis got right in my face with his boozy breath and told me 'mi la esposa esta muerto' my wife is dead, I replied ' Lo Siento Senor Louis' even though I am pretty sure his wife is alive and well. He then said 'me gustaria otro esposa' 'I would like another wife' I said in English 'good luck with that' and turned to leave when both Hugo and Juan tried to talk me having a beer with them, Juan being particularly silly in saying 'usted es una flor hermosa', 'you are a beautiful flower.' So much for practicing Spanish with these 3 goofy gigolos.

Gualaceo, Museo Pumapungo, pedicure and water bombs

On Sunday Susana and her family took me to Gualaceo about a 30 minute drive from Cuenca where we seen traditional handicrafts, pottery, woven baskets and especially interesting, ikat textiles, which are made using a pre-Columbian technique of weaving tie dyed threads. The dyes are all made from natural products, volcano rock, herbs and nuts. The cotton shawls with intricate macrame fringe were especially beautiful.

There is a huge produce market with row after row of fruit and vegetable stands the area is called 'jardin del Azuay' the garden of Azuay which is the province the area is in. We bought some sugar cane and chewed on it for the good sweet juice, the tough fibers clean the teeth, after the juice is gone you spit out the cane.

It was raining most of the day so not a good one for photo's of the area. Susana's papa wanted to treat me to a drink and a pastry that are typical to the city and knew the shop where the very best in town are made. The drink, called rosero, is made from ground corn and fruit and is thick and delicious. I could not taste the corn meal, the drink just tasted fruity and sweet. The pastry is called quesadilla made from wheat and cheese, eggs and sugar. It too was delicious, hard to describe how it looked so I took a picture. Nothing at all like Mexican quesadillas. The family is just so friendly, truly wanting to share their culture with me, I feel so privileged to have met them and be able to spend time with them.

Yesterday I went to the 'Museo Pumapungo' which is Cuenca's most important museum. I spent a couple hours wondering a large floor filled with colourful three-dimensional displays of the traditional costumes and habitats of Ecuador's many indigenous cultures. No camera's allowed, too bad, as the displays were suberb. The grand finale, five shrunken heads from the Shuar culture of the southern Oriente.

I then went for a pedicure and manicure, such a treat, the shop is clean and modern, Fabiola, the esthetician, is an artist she painted a lovely flower on each big toe nail, my feet look and feel pretty special. It took an hour to do both, cost was $8.00 including a $2.00 tip. The lady who owns the shop, another Susana, speaks English and gave me tips on learning Spanish and what to see around town while Fabiola was massageing my feet. One of her daughters is a dentist whom I have made an appointment with to have my teeth cleaned and the other is a fourth year medical student, Karen. Karen has a couple weeks off from school just now and offered to show me around, she speaks excellent English though I will speak Spanish with her as much as I can. The people I have met here are so friendly and open. I will be visiting Fabiola weekly.

Carnival has started early with bomba auga's, water bombs, being pelted at everyone everywhere. After getting hit with the third one yesterday I dropped a bomb of my own, I got a few funny looks and giggles so I am thinking everyone knows that English word.

Aunt Gerry

Today is Aunt Gerry's funeral I cannot be in Sarnia to pay my last respects but I am thinking of her, her smile, her good heart and loving nature and remember how she always greeted me with a hug and that smile and I felt that goodness. May she rest in peace.

As I walk the streets of Cuenca

I have uploaded a few photo's of what I see as I walk the streets of Cuenca. I have a very slow speed internet connection it take 12-15 to upload one photo. What is sad is the pictures from my new camera do not begin to compare with the photos taken with the camera I left in a cab in Quito. I weep.

I do enjoy walking and site seeing, I walk miles everyday. It seems there is a church or one in view on just about every corner, there are something like 60 churches here. I also take time to browse the many pastry shops, I love looking at cake. I love eating cake even more but I am trying to keep my consumption down to one piece every 3 days, difficult but so far after 12 days here I have managed to keep this self imposed rule. Yummy cake, 2 more days until the next piece I know already exactly what shop and which kind of cake.

I am in the process of booking a Galapagos tour for end of February or beginning of March and am pretty excited about that. Also planning a trip into Parque National Cajas described in the guidebook as resembling the Scottish highlands. Then a trip into the Amazon basin. Pretty excited.

Susana, my landlady, though really well intended is not the best Spanish teacher she is too funny and is forever mixing in German words. I am learning more from Senor Louis who owns the small tienda across the road from the apartment. He is so gracious always speaking slowly and asking me to repeat what he says in English so he can learn too, he is either going to Chicago and has been I am not too sure which, I hope our chats improve enough for me to find out for sure.

Tonight I am going to a film at the cultural center with Susana. she phoned yesterday and said she would pick me tonight, meaning tonight today not tonight yesterday, she cannot seem to get the whole yesterday, today, tomorrow straight. I have to be sure to clarify using the Spanish words otherwise I wait at the door for her to pick me up only to discover she meant tomorrow. Not sure I want to see the film, all in Spanish, but she promised to take me to the salsa club after if I go. Love to watch the dancers.

Saturday is the start of Carnival, a 4 day national holiday, a big party in the last few days before lent. Bomba augas, water bombs, are tossed at anyone and everyone from cars and balconies and on the streets. Not sure of the significance of the water but it seems lots of water fights, parades and dancing are the main events. A little water won't hurt me, I am looking forward to seeing the parades and dancers.

I am now in Cuenca and really like it here.

I arrived in Cuenca on Wednesday January 27 via a 30 minute flight from Quito. Within an hour of leaving Quito I was in a taxi on my way to Hostel Mocondo where I had booked accommodation until I could find an apartment. Cuenca will be my home base until I return to Canada end of March.

Hostel Mocondo was a nice place to spend my first days in Cuenco,colonial style my room overlooked the interior garden. Price included breakfast, wifi, and a well equipped kitchen for use of the guests. Cuenca is a city but it has a small town feel within the historical center. The streets are clean and unlike many South American cities there is no graffiti marring the beautiful buildings. A brigade of street cleaners do a great job keeping the street free of litter.

Panama hats are actually made in Cuenca area, not Panama. The hats woven from the fonds of a palm tree that grows in the central region of Ecuador are purchased here and exported to Panama. They are woven by hand, the finer the weave the more expensive the hat.

I spent most of my time the first days exploring the city, looking for an apartment and trying to make up my mind about buying a new camera to replace the one I lost in Quito. I still do spend most of my time exploring the city there is much to see, I get lost regularly.

I did find an apartment the second day here, I am moved in and really like it. It is located in the newer area of the city a ten minute walk from the city center. Everything I need is with easy walking distance and my landlady, Susana, is terrific.

Susana speaks a little English just enough along with my few Spanish words and a lot of pantomimes for us to communicate. She has given me her time to show me around and introduce me to her friends and family. Her parents, sister and brother are wonderful people I am so happy to have met them. I have been to her parents home for lunch and we have gone on an excursion to nearby town together, more about that in the next post. Susana wants to learn more English and I want to learn Spanish, we have plans to spend a couple hours a week focusing on teaching each other. I am not too sure how that will work out as Susana lived in Germany for 12 years and mixes German with English and Spanish, pretty funny sometimes. I am learning more Spanish just by hanging out with the family, everyday a few more words are added to my vocabulary.

This past Saturday we visited a family friend, Dona Yolanda, 81 year old owner of an upscale local hotel. Her hobby is growing orchids and bonsai, she has many beautiful species and it was a joy looking through her greenhouses. We had tea with her and though most of what was spoken went right over my head I did manage to pick up a little of what was said which gives me hope that I am learning if not to speak Spanish at least to understand a little.

What am I eating: The first days here I ate mostly in restaurants, eating my main meal at lunch, almuerzo, then having a snack at night at the hostel. Almuerzos here are a full course mid day meal usually consisting of typical Ecuadorian food, really good value, filling, good tasting and consist of soup, a main which is usually rice, sometimes pasta, meat, a vegetable or salad, desert, juice and is served in a lot of the restaurants. I have had sushi almuerzo, really good, included soup, fish, rice and a glass of wine. Now that I have the apartment I am eating at home more. There is a deli right next door to the apartment building, a good bakery just around the corner and a farmers market one block away. There is also a Super Maxi, large grocery store, 2 blocks away.

What do things cost: Almmerzos run between $2.00 and $3.00, the sushi one was $3.50. A bouquet of fresh flowers $1.00 from the market, avocado $.25. Today I bought a pineapple, 3 huge mangos, and a bunch of cilantro $2.25. A whole bone in breast of chicken .88 kilo $3.38. Half a kilo block of gouda cheese $3.33. 6 pints of good Ecuadorian pilsener beer $3.11. A liter of Argentinian white wine $3.74. A huge slice of triple layer cake made with real whip cream $.80. Anything imported is subjected to a hefty tax I paid $12.00 for a 60 gram tube of 45 SPF sunscreen, the 30 SPF I brought with me was not strong enough, my face got burned. Hostel Mocondo was $18. per night. My furnished one bedroom apartment, bath and a half, galley kitchen, living/dining room, small terrazzo, including cable, internet, phone for local calls, weekly laundry and cleaning $460. per month.

What's cool: Executives with their cell phones, brief cases, ladies in high heel shoes, all in suits walk along side indigenous people in their traditional cloths on the cobbled streets of the city center. The apartment I rented is in a 7 story brand new building, very modern,a two story glass and steel deli right next door, and a 4 lane main thoroughfare at the corner. The back of the building over my terrazzo wall are humble homes where the dishes are washed and cooking is done in an outdoor kitchen, where roosters and chickens are roaming free and laundry hangs on cloths lines strung between homes. Parades, in the week and a half I have been here I have seen 5, I love watching them, the bands, the costumes, wonderful. Movistar, the name of a big cellular phone and internet provider.